There was a time when I feared going to work. I worked at a restaurant. You know the type—frothy ice cream cocktails with cutesy names, 1000 calorie appetizers, kitschy wall décor with local flavor particular to that branch of the corporate chain. It’s no myth, by the way, that there is a par number of flair items (buttons and pins promoting beer and cheesecake and a generic sort of zaniness). For us, the number was three, but you were encouraged to exceed it.
At the end of the night, the list of chores was long. The lingo term is “side work” but I refuse to call it that when referring to this place, which we’ll call “Restaurant X.” I feel that “side work” refers to something breezy, something secondary. At Restaurant X the side work was almost crippling.
If you were a server at Restaurant X in the 90s, you did just about everything. You ran your own food, made your own salads and desserts. You carried bus buckets and had the belly-high pale brown “bus bucket ring” on your uniform to prove it. There were days, early on, that Restaurant X employed bus boys and salad chefs. But they were always cutting corners, and so the servers were eventually forced to do everything other than wash dishes and cook, and I will tell you that I had to do both of those things on occasion. This was all when the restaurant was open. The real work started after your last customers paid their check.
First you cleaned your tables, making sure to wipe out the pizza pans holding the condiments. Then you refilled the condiments and made sure, per corporate standard, that the pink sweetener packets lined up with the crushed red pepper and black pepper, while the white sugar packets sided with the salt and parmesan cheese (which was never refrigerated and smelled strongly of feet). You couldn’t forget to wipe the dessert book or the appetizer tent. You couldn’t forget to sweep. The manager on duty would inspect your station, severely, while you stood by, waiting nervously for the go ahead. The nightly scrutinizing was annoying and demeaning, but not scary. Those in charge, grappling for their little power, did not frighten me.
After section inspection it was on to the side stations—stocking ketchups, mustards, to-go boxes. Eventually, the outer rim of the kitchen our responsibility too. Why pay the minimum wage plus cooks to do what the two dollar an hour wait staff was perfectly capable of? This consisted of cleaning the salad area, cutting vegetables, refilling dressings, stocking the dessert case, and making sure that everything was locked down and covered tightly, superficial protection from the night army. Ah, the night army. Yes, I’m hinting at it now.
After the kitchen break down we made mountains of silverware roll-ups and if we were lucky, we could drink draft beer in plastic soda cups while we sat and chatted and worked on our last task. The beer was a nice touch, I’ll admit, and I count those 2 AM silverware sessions as some of the best of my life. Laughing and flirting and playing funny songs over the sound system. It was good, it was good. But it wasn’t like that every night. We always had to beg for the beer. Literally beg, like small children wanting a cookie. The manager would always drag it out too. They’d throw us a “maybe” and a “we’ll see” and the old “I’m terribly busy right now but I’ll see how things look in a minute.” Murmurings would pass across the greasy tiled floor. We’re getting beer. We’re not getting beer. Has anyone asked about the beer? You ask, she likes you best. Toddlers. Cookies.
But the thought of a night without crappy, flat Miller Lite is not what frightened me.
And no, it was not the threat of rent, and how each tip mattered in the quest to make it in one night, already a week overdue.
You may think I was scared of the incestuous vines that bound me to practically everyone in the place, a hook-up tree (which we did, at one point, actually map out) full of hazy memories and sloppy indiscretions. But that, while awkward, was really not all that scary.
What scared me was the final thing that was expected of us, in addition to the buttons and pins, the neat ponytail, the clean necktie. We were asked to go above and beyond with the kitchen clean up and the anal retentive condiment arrangement. And then we were asked to go above and beyond that. We were expected, though our sweaty palms and pale green faces often betrayed us, to keep a secret.
Restaurant X was completely and totally infested with rats.
At roll-up time, I would tuck my feet up into the booth, Indian style. As I cleaned the kitchen, I jumped at every little sound. The creatures stayed back, in the walls and in the ceilings, when the restaurant was bustling. After hours they were ever so slightly more visible. And after after hours the place was rumored to be a literal circus of rodents—enormous rats dancing around on table tops, hopping from chair to chair, juggling bits of garlic bread with cheese. In looking back, I realize that I truly needed that Miller Lite to avoid lying awake at night, thinking about it. Although I didn’t see them every day, it was enough to know they were there, whiskers moving rapidly with each dirty little breath.
Ecolab (pest control) was there every night. I would flip through their clipboard each morning; hand over an open mouth and one eye closed, as if reading a horror novel. Caught 2 over by the coffee pot. Saw a big one in take out but didn’t get there in time. Found feces in the downstairs bathroom.
The activity peaked in 1997—I call it the Year of the Rat, but I think it was actually the Ox or the Tiger. That year, I stomped menacingly around corners, I took escorts into dry storage, and I closed my eyes if I had to reach into a half empty case of napkins.
This year they were suddenly more aggressive, coming out when the place was packed—“theater rush” as we called it, two hours of fancies from the Huntington Theater and Symphony Hall. The theater crowd was an interesting thing at Restaurant X. All of a sudden the establishment was made to be something it truly was not—fine dining. Because there was really no place closer to eat, the rich folks talked themselves in to finding Restaurant X delightful, happily sipping their well bourbon Manhattan or Sutter Home chardonnay as if doing something novel, roughing it for the night. Besides those two glorious hours every Thursday through Sunday, the place was what it was—a cheesy American bar and grill that usually catered to the permanent neighbors of Northeastern University and the Roxbury projects.
During business hours, the year’s braver rats usually only made brief appearances, darting from the bar to the kitchen, from the cluttered host stand to the side station. The servers, aware and on guard, might catch a glimpse or just sense the rat on an energetic level. The customers were usually clueless—involved in their chatter, pink with wine, chin deep in New Orleans Fettuccini. I do remember one particular theater rush, however, when one went absolutely crazy, zigzagging through the middle of the restaurant, circling legs and bucking wildly, perhaps high on Ecolab’s insufficient poison. He was probably a ten-pounder, to be honest, and the fancies were less than thrilled. Sharp dressed men knocked over their cheap red wine and tried not to act like little girls. Old ladies in their fur shawls climbed a top chairs, clutching their purses, wobbling on beige heels and artificial hips that we all hoped would not betray them. I pressed myself against the stylized red brick, heart pounding, trying hard to keep the unspoken promise of a Restaurant X employee. The place. Crawling with them.
As a rule, the managers did not like to discuss the issue. They actually acted like this was normal—Boston and rats were like peanut butter and jelly. And it was true, in a sense. It was common to see a lone rat run through a dark alleyway, or leap from a dumpster. But these were alleys and dumpsters, after all.
Slowly, as the intensity of the Year of the Rat grew, the bosses started talking. They still tried to brush things off, they acted like it was “all part of the show.” The Board of Health allows a certain amount of rodent activity, you know, and we still fall well beneath the undesirable limit. They’re just getting frisky because of the big dig. Well, Back Bay used to be under water, you know. Half of Boston was under water so obviously…obviously… Ha ha, got you there. Their stuttering explanations began to make less sense and you’d see them, wide eyed and skittish, shake their keys through the cracked office door before flipping on the lights. The office, you see, was one of the hot spots for rat activity. At basement level, across from the food storage and adjacent to the damp and sticky liquor room, rats seemed to like this warm, quiet place.
I spent two hours a week in that office, as Restaurant X’s illustrious administrative assistant. In short, I paid the bills, including a rather hefty one to Ecolab. Rick the Rat Man was there so often at this point, he was like one of the gang. I wouldn’t have blinked if he showed up in a denim shirt, funky tie, and maroon apron.
While paying bills, I would play the radio loud and make weird noises, trying to scare any squatters away. I avoided sticky sodas and never wore flip flops, God forbid one should brush my bare skin. I tried to keep my feet off the ground, either by propping them up on a cardboard box or kneeling awkwardly on the rolling office chair. I never brought food into the office. In fact, during this particular year, I did not eat at Restaurant X at all, despite the 50% employee discount.
I saw things that year that no one should ever see. I saw corporate bound managers wading through the flooded basement, picking frozen chicken breasts out of the murky water for future use. The water, of course, was totally ratastic, but there was food cost to consider.
At least three times, I saw dark blood dripping from the dressing room wall—these were moments of celebration for Rick, his intricate maze of traps and poison yielding occasional results.
Meals were comped nightly, the rogue rats getting more and more comfortable with the dinner crowd. They even seemed to enjoy it, darting across booths, sniffing at shoes, stopping in the center of section three to get at an itch behind the ear, as if giving the theater goers a little opening act.
Just when I thought I’d seen it all, my perpetual disgust was taken to a new level.
It was a sunny morning, around 8 AM—early for a college girl, early for a waitress. I was both. I stood in line at the Dunkin Donuts across from Restaurant X, waiting for an extra large ice coffee, one that would take me through the morning bills. One of our managers, Daryl, caught up with me in line. Usually full of spark and attitude, he was visibly shaken. His eyes darted around the coffee shop, looking at each customer with suspicion.
“What’s wrong with you?” I asked.
“Are you here to pay bills?” he whispered, in a growling, urgent sort of way.
“Yeah…Daryl, what’s wrong?”
“You really don’t want to see the office. I don’t know that the office is the best place for you right now.”
“Why? What’s going on?” As if I didn’t know.
He looked at me like, You know.
“Critters?” I whispered.
Daryl nodded.
“Roaches?” I asked, hopeful. Oh yeah, we had those too.
“Maggots,” he whispered, “a lot of them.”
A rat—I kid you not—the size of a puppy, had died on the ceiling tile directly over the computer desk. The crumbly old square, probably lined with asbestos, sagged ominously with the weight of the thing. You could make out the rounded shape of the overstuffed torso, fat with years of old onion rings, stale croutons, and ranch dressing milkshakes. My diaphragm heaved and my mouth let out an involuntary, exaggerated gasp, Twilight Zone style. Truly, the scene before me was unreal. A steady line of maggots slowly dripped from the challenged ceiling, landing on the desk with soft thud after thud, like the sound of gelatinous rain.
When the dry heaves started, I was offered a pass and instructed to go upstairs to drink my coffee and wait for my serving shift. I sat in booth 50 (feet tucked of course) stunned still and wondering if I could realistically continue working in a rat hole. But here’s the thing about the Restaurant X of the late 90’s—it was a family, however dysfunctional. Most of us had been there three or four years, which is a long time for a shitty restaurant job. This was our social scene and our life. It was a scary thing to leave. And besides, I don’t know one young waitress who can actually afford to walk out without something huge waiting in the wings. Starting at a new restaurant means one to two weeks of training shifts—no tips. It means crappy lunches and slow Sunday nights. I really couldn’t afford to leave at the time.
By two o’ clock that afternoon, the office had been “cleaned up” and Daryl asked me to go down to do my work. I whined, I protested, I let my eyes tear dramatically. Somehow I thought giving it a day or two would provide some sort of invisible protection, at the very least distance from what I had witnessed that morning.
I was unable to talk my way out of it, and sure enough, one stray maggot wiggled across the keyboard right as I sat down. I looked to the ceiling, the missing square hastily covered with what some sort of baking tray. The maggots were no longer dripping, but at least one was still around, alive and moving before me. I yelled for Daryl, who begrudgingly carried him out on an old envelope. As I hastily handled my paperwork, I felt clammy and tense. So deep was my fear, so strong my disgust, I was physically suffering.
Later that week I was promoted to bartender. Bartenders were the elite members of the front of the house staff—they had regulars, they made more per hour, they made more in tips, and their side work, while more physically strenuous, was slight. OK, that might be an exaggeration, but from the server’s perspective, they had the easy job…the cool job. I should have been excited. I would have been excited. But there was just one thing about the bar. Rat central. The bar rats were some of the fiercest in the place. They were used to traffic and addicted to the sweet spill of whiskey, beer, and strawberry daiquiri mix. The bartenders were the biggest secret keepers in the joint. Trapped in a square island cage and constantly “on” they had to continuously chat with their patrons, even if a fat one was flapping a fleshy tail against their foot. There were horror stories of rats crawling up legs, hissing from behind beer lines, hanging out in the corner munching on chicken wings, unblinking and unafraid.
I took the job, temporarily, terrified of the bar rats but determined to overcome my fear. I was, after all, bigger than them. I could only hope.